2000 Ford Ranger
2000 Ford Ranger questions and answers
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Q: How do you replace the headlight bulbs on a 2000 Ford Ranger?
I have a 2000 Ford Ranger and I was wondering how to replace the headlight bulbs. I bought some sylvania silverstar ultra bulbs and I can't seem to replace them on my ranger. Don't laugh.. it is supposed to be simple but I can't figure it out. A step by step process would be helpful, if you could find step by step with galleries would be even better.
A: Go to a Food ranger dealer and get the bulbs and then go to a gas station and ask if they would replace for you. Would be cheaper for gas station to replace then dealer.
Q: Question regarding the oil pressure sensor on a 2000 Ford Ranger?
I have to chaneg the oil pressure sensor on my 2000 Ford Ranger. The engine is a 4.0L OHV. When I remove the sensor, will oil start to drain from the hole it was removed from?
A: On the ones I've done, as long as you let the engine sit for a few minutes, it's not enough to talk about (usually a few big drops worth)
Q: How much should I expect to pay to install Air Conditioning on a 2000 Ford Ranger?
I am buying a 2000 Ford Ranger, and I would like to know what I will be charged for installing A/C in it.
A: I bought a 2003 ford focus with no a/c. I was quoted by a ford dealership that it would cost around $900 or more to install an a/c. I went 2 years living in vegas with no air, I finally traded it last year for a 2005 altima. Call a ford dealership or call around. Im pretty sure its going to be a couple hundred dollars.
Q: I need to change spark plugs in a 2000 ford ranger xlt?
I have a 2000 ford ranger xlt truck; the check engine light is on and the computer shows that #1 and #3 are misfiring; I need to change the plugs/wires, but there is not a diagram in the book, nor can i see one on the manifold/engine area.
A: Don't change your spark plugs yet. Many other problems are much more likely unless your plugs are due to be replaced according to your Ford maintenance schedule. Many platinum tipped long life plugs are good for 80000 miles or more. You are probably in the early stages of "throwing parts at the problem". It pays to do a little diagnosis first, especially with an engine misfire error code. However, I agree that the first order of business is to make sure your basic "tune up" and maintenance items on the truck have been maintained according to Ford's maintenance schedule. Note that you can easily damage the spark plug wires when trying to remove them from the spark plugs if your not careful, which can actually create an ignition spark problem rather than solve one.
Q: What is a good type of system to put in my 2000 Ford Ranger?
I have a 2000 ford ranger and i have no clue what kind of system/radio to put in it. please help me!
A: make a list of the following:
what kind of music you listen to.
what model of ranger extra cab.
how much room you are willing to sacrifice.
how do you listen to music(ipod- use one with an aux in)
how much bass you want.
and the biggest one of them all HOW much $ are you willing to spend. repost if you need any more help
Q: How long would it take to put on a head gasket? for a 2000 ford ranger.?
How long would it take to put on a head gasket? for a 2000 ford ranger. What would it cost?
A: since you dont know what you are doing about 3-4 hours.. if you knew what you were doing about 45 mins max (even with an OHC.. just make sure you know where yer belt/chain is).. head gaskets are cheap.. under $25 if that much... Hard part is getting all the other stuff outta the way.. using the right sealers (copper spray coat is the best i've found) and getting the torque & torque sequence right... Got aluminum heads?? Or block? Better make sure they arent warped.. cuz if they are a new head gasket isnt gonna help... (if you over heated and blew it.. you got more probs than a head gasket)
Q: 2000 ford ranger performance enhancements?
I have a stock 2000 Ford Ranger 4x4 with the 3.0L V6. I'm looking to increase the trucks performance both in gas mileage and horse power. I'm interested in any enhancement whether it be a quick add on or a major change. Let me know what you've heard or have done yourself.
A: Ok first off, you will never get better gas mileage with more horsepower. Cold air intakes, throttle bodies, k&n blah blah blah. Keep the 400 bucks in your pocket from these worthless mods and put it in your gas tank. The cold air intake looks cool but sucks in hot air off the engine and w/ 4x4 you dont want a open intake system anyways. To truly make power save some bucks and go forced induction (ie: supercharger). Then once you are pulling alot of air you'll be ready to get rid of it, this is when an exhaust, headers and larger throttle body will prove some difference. If youre adding bigger tires you will gain back some punch with lower gears and most who have done this say gas mileage doesnt change enough to matter. If you need more information on this go to therangerstation.com.
Q: What causes a gauge to stick? 2000 Ford Ranger?
I have a 2000 Ford Ranger and it seems like when it's cold and I first start it up the oil pressure gauge is in the red zone saying there is no oil pressure and the light on the dash that says "CHECK GAUGES" comes on. I turn the truck right off and then turn it back on and then the gauge works fine. Is there a problem with the gauge or with the sending unit or what?
A: You need to check the wires on the oil pressure sensor unit. I have several Crown Victorias and Grand Marquis in my taxi fleet that have the same problem. What you will need to do is to either replace the plug, or clean the wires and make sure they are properly insulated. If you drive the vehicle for 5 minutes the gauge should operate, too. What is happening is that liquid has gotten inside the wires and is causing too much resistance for the gauge to receive the signals from the sensor, and the wire must dry a bit before it will carry the signal all the way to the computer.
Q: Which bulbs should I use for my 2000 Ford Ranger?
I have a 2000 Ford Ranger V4, NOT electric. I'm wondering what headlight bulbs I should use to replace the stock ones. I'm looking for the number to be specific. On the replacement guide on sylvania.com it says 9007 for the high and low beam headlamp and it says 9006 for the fog/driving lights. Whats it refering to? Help. Thanks in advance.
A: Depends...do you have four lights on the front of your truck?
The 9007 is for the standard light set-up, ( only two lights )
The 9006 is for the set of fog lamps down near the bumper (hence there would be four light units altogether)
Q: 2000 Ford Ranger noise when AC is on?
Okay I have 2000 Ford Ranger over 137K miles on it. When I turn on my AC, I hear a noise like a fan on the passenger side. If I turn the AC up, it gets louder. Does anyone know what this means ?
A: the squeaking is coming from the blower motor. you can replace the blower motor because it is probably going out or you can go buy a can of spray silicon and spray that into a hole on the blower motor and hope it gets to the squeaking bearing.
Q: How do I change a hub on a 2000 ford ranger?
Like an idiot, I put my spare on backwards, and the driving stripped my bolts on the hub. So I am to buy a new one. How do I put it on? I've read that it's easy, but not if you don't know how to do it.
A: 2wd or 4wd? The 2wd will come as part of the brake rotor assembly, and all that needs to be swapped out is the bearings and seal. The 4wd will need to have the locking hub assembly installed into the new rotor assembly.
Q: How do i change my brake pads on my 2000 ford ranger?
I need new brakes and i heard it isn't that hard to change out brake pads. Plz add details i'm not a retard i just dont want to fuck my shit up.
A: You will need a jack, Jack stands, and Wheel blocks (In the event that the brake fails or your truck slips out of gear) the pads for the truck, Brake cleaner, a C-clamp (About a 6 in), wire or metal hangers, and Basic hand tools.
Break the lug nuts lose but do not remove them from the tires. Raise and support the truck with the jack and jack stands. Make sure the truck is resting on the jack stands and it does not rock back and forth. Remove the lung nuts from the wheels and remove the tires.
Once the tires are removed inspect the brake hoses and the calipers for cracks, wear, or other damage. The Calipers are held in place by 2 bolts. They may us a socket or a torx bit. (Normally a T-15 or t-20.) It varies on fords. I have seen both on their trucks. Loosen and remove the support bolts. With a small flat blade screw driver gently pry the caliper off the rotor (Make sure you do not scar, gouge, or damage the caliper or rotor in this process. The caliper should pull out of the support fairly easy. Next remove the outer pad from the caliper. With the old pad still in place use the C clamp to compress the piston on the caliper. You need to compress the piston in to the caliper other wise the new pads will not fit back around the rotor on the truck. For best results and to keep from damaging the control valve on the ABS Crack the bleeder valve on the caliper. Remove the inner pad after the piston is fully compressed.
Once the caliper has been compressed close the bleeder valve and use the wire or the hanger to help support the caliper, do not let the caliper hang from the brake hose. With the caliper supported and out of the way inspect your calipers for groves, glazing, burn marks, or uneven ware. Also take this time to inspect the pads that have been removed for uneven wear as well.
For the best possible brake job and to give you the best stopping power, pull the rotors and take then down to the auto parts store and have then turned. This takes care of a number of things that can cause poor performance from brakes. It removes the glaze from the surface, it true’s the rotor (All rotors warp no matter how you drive) and it also gives a good clean surface for the brakes to mate too.
Once you get the rotors back from the auto parts store (Normally takes about an hour or two to complete the turning.) it's time to reassemble the system. a few things you need to do prior to reassembly is clean up the contact surfaces of the caliper and the mounting bracket also to use the brake cleaner to remove any grease, dirt, or metal filings that may have been left over from the machining process. Use some paper towels to wipe away the excess brake cleaner, install the rotors on to the car.
Next you need to install the calipers, these are free floating calipers and need to have a good clean lubricated surface to operate correctly. Using some sand paper or a wire brush remove any rust on any of the mating surfaces for the caliper and the mounting bracket. It doesn't need to be perfect but the cleaner you can get it the better. once the surface it cleaned up use a little bit or grease and apply it to both the mating surface of the caliper and the mounting bracket (We will some times use some small strips of Teflon to help them glide a little better but you do not need to do this. Install the new pads remove the caliper from the hanger and reinstall the caliper on to the car. You will need to lube the bolts as they help the caliper move freely as well. Install the bolts and tighten to hold the caliper in place.
Once the pads and the calipers have been installed and everything is sitting how it should, you will want to pump the breaks to help seat the pads against the rotors. (Starting the car will help as it uses the power break booster to help seat the brakes.) Check the pedal for feel. If they are a little spongy, this is likely because you opened the bleeder valve, you need to have some one pump the brakes while you bleed the system out. The best way to complete this is to start at the wheel that is farthest from the driver’s seat, which would be the passenger rear wheel. Have your assistant pump the brakes and hold them, you crack the bleeder valve and look for air bubbles. If you see none lock the bleeder valve and move to the next wheel. Follow this process until you have done all the wheels working from the farthest wheel to the closest wheel to the driver.
Once you have completed the bleeding process put the wheels back on. Install the lug nuts and tighten then while still on the jack stands. Lower the car and then recheck the wheel lugs. Top off the brake fluid and then take the truck out for a test drive. Start out slow and do not get in to the brakes. They need time to seat and break in the new surface. You truck should stop just as well as it did when you purchased the car.
Hope this helps and please contact me if you have any more questions.
Q: Where can I find pictures of a 2000 Ford Ranger rear axle assembly?
Specifically, pictures of the ABS sensor on top of the rear differential. I'm trying to replace this sensor but I can't find it.
A: lay under the truck with the driveline going up to your left and the exhaust across your chest, put your hand on the driveline flange slide your hand up the case toward the rear of the vehicle, there will be two guards cast on the case protecting the sensor and the sensor has a two wire connector and a retainer bolt, just remove the connector and the bolt and out it comes. this sensor is the only thing on the differential with wires going to it. be careful putting the new one in because if you try to draw it into the case with the bolt, you will break the sensor, just lube the o-ring on the new one with any kind of oil and push it in by hand.
I'm just curious why you are replacing it, unless you have an abs light on.
Q: Which car is better a 2001 Ford Ranger "Edge" or 2000 Mercury Cougar?
I read good and bad about both. They are both priced around 5,000.00
I had a 2000 Ford Ranger Sport that never gave me any issues, but I do like the looks of the 2000 Mercury Cougar as well. I need something that is reliable.
A: ranger 4wd all the way
Q: Where can I find a diagram of rear brakes on a 2000 Ford Ranger?
I changed the brake shoes and now the wheels are locked up. Everything looks like it's back together right.
A: Chances are that you placed the wrong shoes in the wrong position. There are two types of lining on the brake shoes of drum brakes. There is a PRIMARY and a SECONDARY.
The primary shoe is positioned toward the front of the vehicle while the secondary shoe is oriented toward the rear. If this orientation isn't maintained, then the brakes WILL be very touchy.
Also consider, was the drum worn enough to see a channel in the braking surface? If so, and if you didn't file the edges of the shoes to conform to that channel, then the brakes are trying to stop on a very narrow friction surface causing you to apply added force. This in turn can cause the brakes to be touchy for a while.
As for the diagram you asked about, there isn't one on the 'net that is cost free. Try the local library, or purchase the repair manual at the parts store for < $20.00.
Or you can go here------>
http://www.eautorepair.net/
...and for a modest fee, you can have access to ALL of the published repair data for the little trucklett, including the illustrations yo seek, pictures, repair procedures, diagnostics, recalls and TSBs.
Good Luck and Merry Christmas